Thursday, July 24, 2008

Giovanni's in Detroit

So my wonderful husband took me and darling son and daughter to Giovanni's in Detroit. You drive through a manufacturing not-quite-hellhole/Mordor--vestiges of the manufacturing empire that's been Detroit.

And, ah, you reach an oasis of hospitality and wonderful food! A well-priced and varied wine list, warm and professional servers (our lovely server has worked there for 23 years and it was like she was serving us at her home.)

I had the pesce Francesa --a huge amount of delicate fresh lake perch filets in a flavorful sauce of butter, lemon and capers --the sharpness of the lemons and capers a great foil for the delicate fish. An herbed risotto could have been hotter but was textbook texture.

Darling daugher had a subtle, gorgeous brodo with pasta and amazingly flavorful meat cannellloni --sauce was so tomatoey! Son had ravioli with boursin cheese and sun -dried tomatoes in a wonderful lemony sauce with lucious chunks of crab meat. He said it's the best ravioli he had in his life.

Husband had a great charred pair of tournedos on pancetta risotto with wine reduction.
Steak was good, but not memorable as our other dishes; pancetta was deeply flavorful and rich, a good accompaniment for the steak (other option was polenta).

Hallmark was flavor, texure and excellence of ingredients. And the warmth of the staff, the owner visiting us.

As we celebrated our daughter's coming semester in Rome, this meal set the stage for the heart and soul of Italian food and sharing it with the ones we love.

This is what food made with integrity and love can do.

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